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Commit fb27620b authored by Mohammed Omer's avatar Mohammed Omer
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......@@ -501,21 +501,27 @@ Motor current can be defined in config_adv.h file whereby the digipot option nee
### Initial Bed Levelling, First Layer Thickness and Z-Offset
Levelling the bed or setting the gap between the nozzle and the bed is done to let the machine know where exactly the bed is. This is usually done with a thin piece of paper being inserted between the nozzle and bed, untill the nozzle just grabs the paper. We are essentially looking to have zero gap between nozzle tip and bed so that the machine can know where exactly is Z=0 i.e. on the bed surface. Understanding the concept of bed levelling and first layer thickness is nicely explained in the following article(https://www.3dmakerengineering.com/blogs/3d-printing/bed-leveling-first-layer-thickness-and-z-offset).
Levelling the bed or setting the gap between the nozzle and the bed is done to let the machine know where exactly the bed is. Levelling the bed is crucial to getting a even first layer because it lets the nozzle extrude even across the entire bed. We need both a level build surface and correct nozzle gap to get an even first layer. Then we have the perfect foundation for the rest of our 3D print job. This is usually done with a thin piece of paper being inserted between the nozzle and bed, untill the nozzle just grabs the paper. We are essentially looking to have zero gap between nozzle tip and bed so that the machine can know where exactly Z=0 is i.e. on the bed surface. Understanding the concept of bed levelling and first layer thickness is nicely explained in the following article(https://www.3dmakerengineering.com/blogs/3d-printing/bed-leveling-first-layer-thickness-and-z-offset).
![Paper between nozzle and bed](https://ucarecdn.com/bc1056b7-5d89-4e1f-ad61-5779169d9a8a/-/format/auto/-/preview/3000x3000/-/quality/lighter/)
Even though the milled aluminium build plate is flat, it sits on 3D printed brackets and so the bed will not sit on a completely flat plane and will be slightly tilted. Therefore, the build platform needs to be levelled by adjusting the levelling screws. This process is well explained in the following [article](https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-bed-leveling-step-by-step-tutorial/).
The bed levelling screws were turned 4-5 full turns to tighten the aluminium build plate mounted on the 4 springs. The bed was heated to 70degC (to let it expand) and after a few ,minutes, the axes were homed and the nozzle was brought manually to the front left corner of the build platform. A thin piece of paper (mine was 0.08mm measured with a Vernier Caliper - the thinner the better) was inserted between nozzle and bed, and the bed levelling screws tightened (distance between nozzle & bed increases) or loosened (distance between nozzle and bed decreases), untill the nozzle just grabbed the piece of paper. Th eprocess is repeated on the four corners of the bed i.e. near the four bed levelling screws. Finally it is done in the center of the bed.
The bed levelling screws were turned 5 full turns to tighten the aluminium build plate mounted on the 4 springs. The bed was heated to 70degC (to let it expand) and after a few ,minutes, the axes were homed and the nozzle was brought manually to the front left corner of the build platform. A thin piece of paper (mine was 0.08mm measured with a Vernier Caliper - the thinner the better) was inserted between nozzle and bed, and the bed levelling screws tightened (tightrning the bed levelling screws compresses the springs and the bed is pulled down towards the bed brackets and distance between nozzle & bed increases) or loosened (distance between nozzle and bed decreases), untill the nozzle just grabbed the piece of paper. The process is repeated on the four corners of the bed i.e. near the four bed levelling screws. Finally it is done in the center of the bed.
Note: For printing PETG use a normal (thin) paper and for printing PLA use a business card (thicker than normal paper). For PETG the first layer needs to be squished slightly more in order to grip the build surface.
## Setting up MKS TFT32 Display
## Sending print commands
There are 3 ways to print a part from the printer namely:
1) via the internal onboard SD card - Here the print job (gcode) can be copied on to the oboard SD card. The on-board SD card is inserted back into the controller board, and the print job (gcode) can be found under the option 'Print from media'. However this is a little cumbersome, since the micro SD card has to be constantly inerted and removed from the controller board.
2) via an external SD card connected to an LCD display - Not all LCD display SD card slots work with the MKS Sbase V1.3. Currently the LCD display is a full discount RepRep Smart Controller LCD. This works with a hack that involves turning the EXP connectors on the back of the LCD controller 180 degrees. However, the SD card on the controller does not work without a tricky wire hack. This is mainly a problem with marlin. The REpRAP display SD card works fine with smoothieware. The SD card on the TFT 32 or TFT 28 displays from MKS work with marlin and so next step will be to get one of these.
3) directly via the computer using a host software - Repetier host can be used to connect to the printer controller board via the Laptop. A print job can then be uploaded to the SD card by saving the gcode file as XYZ.GCO. This allows then printing from the onboard SD card. The transfer is however slow.
Currently the LCD display is a full discount RepRep Smart Controller LCD. This works with a hack that involves turning the EXP connectors on the back of the LCD controller 180 degrees. However, the SD card on the controller does not work without a tricky wire hack. This is mainly a problem with marlin. The REpRAP display SD card works fine with smoothieware. The SD card on the TFT 32 or TFT 28 displays from MKS work with marlin and so next step will be to get one of these.
To configure the TFT32 display and install firmware, go to Github repo from Makerbase and download the zip folder for TFT28-32 display.
## Setting up MKS TFT32 Display
To configure the TFT32 display and install firmware, go to [Github repo](https://github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-TFT/tree/master/MKS-TFT2.8-3.2) from Makerbase and download the zip folder for TFT28-32 display.
- Extract the contents
- Open Config folder and copy out the mks_config_EN.txt file and rename it to remove the _EN since that causes problems > file renamed to mks_config.txt
- Go to Firmware > TFT28 32 firmware > Retro > mkstft28.bin
......@@ -530,6 +536,8 @@ To configure the TFT32 display and install firmware, go to Github repo from Make
A nice way of presenting bill of materials ![Picture BOM](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0221/4487/6644/files/2040_Z_Axis.jpg?v=1575871738)
[Guide on troubleshooting and Calibrating](https://3dnation504795197.wordpress.com/guide/)
## Next Improvements
The surface finish of 3d printed parts is generally good other than some ringing or ghosting that is visible. According to this blogpost(Insert link), this can be attributed to the slack from belts or wobbling idler pulleys. Users have countered these issues in several ways:
......
- overall considerations
Overall considerations
- frame
- mechanics
- electronics
......
- Troubleshooting machine if things go wrong
examples:
1. - Problem: Seeing random layer lines on part
- Cause: Loose Belts
- Solution: Tighten belts till pricking them gives them a slight twang.
2. Problem: Stepper motor suddenly very noisy or skipping steps
- Cause: Loose cable ends in JST connectors going to stepper driver ports on controller board
- Solution: Make sure all four wires from stepper motor are properly inserted into the JST connectors
3. Problem: First layer not sticking to bed
- Cause 1 : Dirty bed (grease, fingerprints, dust etc.)
- Solution: Clean bed with isopropyl alcohol and dry
- Cause 2: Z-Offset not set right i.e. Zero Nozzle position too far away from bed i.e. at the Z=0 position there is a gap between nozzle and bed.
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