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Design.md 47.22 KiB

Choosing a 3D Printer for the OLSK

The aim of the Open Lab 3D printer is to develop a DIY 3D Printer design that is robust and reliable. It should be possible for anyone to build it, with the posssibility of modifying it according to their budget, requirements and available resources.

Requirements

  • The Open lab 3D Printer must be a reliable machine with quality components that can be built from scratch with having to source as few components as possible.
  • The printer can be built locally without having to purchase an expensive Kit or fully assembled 3D Printer.
  • The printer should make it possible for users to choose their own components for key elements depending on local availability of components and budget.

With quality components and systems being more expensive, 3 designs categories are proposed depending on the user budget. These are namely a high end model, a mid-consumer model and a budget model.

Using MoSCoW method of prioritization to prioritize the design objectives.

  • Must have (M) — these are critical and must be included into the product. If even one isn’t included, the release is considered a failure. These can be downgraded if there’s agreement among stakeholders.
  • Should have (S) — these requirements are important but not crucial for the release. They’re the first level of “Nice to have”, and generally share the importance of MUST requirements, without being so time-sensitive.
  • Could have (C) — these requirements are desirable but not necessary for the release. They’re usually low-cost enhancements to the product. Due to their lower importance, they’re the second level of “Nice to have” features.
  • Won’t have (W) — these are considered to be the least-critical or even not aligned with the product strategy. They are to be definitely dropped or to be reconsidered for future releases.

3D Printer Design Goals:

  1. Enclosed and Stiff construction
  2. Reliable and repeatable print quality
  3. As much as possible can be built or sourced locally
  4. Configurable based on local resources
  5. No reliance on any manufacturer or proprietary hardware

Technical Specifications

  • Build Volume :- 200x200x200 to 400x400x400 (Configurable?)
  • Built in Enclosure
  • Automatic bed levelling feature with inductive sensor
  • Heated Build Platform (> 60 deg C - 110 deg C)
  • Good Quality hot end (E3D V6 or clone)
  • Use a direct-drive extruder (to print flexible filaments) / Bowden Extruder
  • PLA, PETG, ABS and other std. materials
  • Detect if filament finishes mid build or gets stuck
  • Detect power loss and resume build
  • Removable build plate (flex to remove part)
  • HEPA Filter with Fan to remove fumes (for ABS printing)
  • Emergency Stop Button
  • 32 bit control capability
  • Linear guides for fast accelerations
  • Wifi Connectivity
  • IP Cam to see build in real time

Further Requirements (For Workshops)

  1. Printable assembly and build instruction required.
  2. SD card, USB drive compatibility and display required.
  3. Aluminium profile ends needs to be closed with protection pads.
  4. All holes in profiles, enclosure plates or build plate needs to be drilled and deburred in advance
  5. Linear bearings needed to lubricated beforehand (or avoided by buying quality bearing like Misumi)
  6. Threaded inserts (Einpressmutter) needs to be inserted into printed parts before workshop and check possibility to replace inserts with nuts
  7. Firmware should already be uploaded to controller board with the right settings.
  8. All cables must be extended to have the right length with insertable JST ends (Workshop will have no soldering activity)
  9. No sharp corners
  10. AC wiring completely enclosed.

Design Categories

  1. Design 1 High End: (Similar or cheaper than Ultimaker < 2500€ )

    • High end 3D printer with profesional grade print quality and speed
    • Durable and high end components
    • Latest features Possibly look at the Voron V1.8 for this.

  2. Design 2 - Mid Consumer (similar in price to Prusa i3 < 800€ )

    • Higher end 3D printer with most key advanced features that could be in the price range of the prusa i3

  3. Design 3 - Affordable (Similar in price to Ender 3 < 200€ )

    • 3D printer that is affordable in the range of the cheapest commercial good quality printer like the popular Creality Ender 3
    • This could include similar design considerations in terms of components and mechanics
    • Fully DIY so it can be built by anyone and almost anywhere in the world
    • Should have all the very basics to allow someone to 3D print good parts

Current 3D Printer Design Log

Frame

For the outer frame of the design, we start with the Hypercube Evoution design by thingyverse user Scott3D which has a boxed construction that has been tried and tested for rigidity and stiffness. The boxed frame is also easier to enclose which is necessary for printing ABS that requires a controlled temperature environment for good layer adhesion. The enclosed frame is also more importantly kids (and pets) friendly. The frame squareness after building can be verified by measuring the opposite diagonals. If they are the same you know have a square structure.

Mechanics

The design uses the CoreXY mechanism whereby the motors for the X and Y axis are fixed to the frame, which makes the X carriage that carries only the print head lighter than a conventional Cartesian design which has to carry the X axis motor. This should allow higher accelerations and printing speed.