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Commit 0de0fbac authored by Mohammed Omer's avatar Mohammed Omer
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# Home
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# Desktop 3D Printer
## Some Popular Open Source & Commercial 3D Printers
Preliminary research was carried out to see which open source designs and commercial 3D are popular in the 3D printer community. These will be used as a starting point for the development.
Various repositories such as Youtube, Github, Instructables, GrabCad, Thingiverse, Personal Blogs and Technical Forums were searched.
### Popular Open Source/Kit 3D Printers
1. The [Prusa i3MK3](https://www.prusa3d.com/) is one of the most popular open source 3D printers which consistently ranks among the [best printers](https://all3dp.com/1/best-3d-printer-reviews-top-3d-printers-home-3-d-printer-3d/) money can buy. The printer currently costs about 800 Euros which is slightly on the pricey end.
![Prusa i3MK3](https://i.all3dp.com/cdn-cgi/image/fit=cover,w=1000,gravity=0.5x0.5,format=auto/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/15155153/prusa6.jpg)
Observing the build quality of several Prusa printers built in our Open Lab at the HSU, the build isn't one of the sturdiest out there. One possible upgrade to increase the frame strength and make the printer more sturdy is the [bear upgrade](https://github.com/gregsaun/prusa_i3_bear_upgrade), which is an all aluminium frame upgrade for the Prusa i3MK3 costing about 80 Euros bought as a kit. Moreover, most parts cannot be sourced locally, i.e. they **have** to be bought from Prusa.
<img src= "https://orballoprinting.com/827-thickbox_default/prusa-bear-full-upgrade-mk3.jpg" alt="bear upgrade" width="600" height="600">
2. The [Vulcaman V1 Reprap 3D-Printer](https://www.instructables.com/Vulcanus-V1-3D-Printer/) with a build cost of 300€ is a [CoreXY](http://corexy.com/theory.html) fully DIY 3D printer based on the reprap model. It has a fully enclosed design and the design is licensed under Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International (CC BY-NC-SA 4.0)
- BOM, CAD and a detailed instruction manual are available.
- Much interaction from community on the design and 15+ rebuilds which shows the design is relatively simple with good instructions and is reproducible.
<img src="https://content.instructables.com/ORIG/F7W/NLHN/I9IBO9VQ/F7WNLHNI9IBO9VQ.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=1024&fit=bounds&md=bd7018083287778af70e2362185266ae" alt="Vulcaman V1 Reprap Model" width="450" height="450" style="vertical-align:middle">
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 44cm x 44cm x 60cm
- Build Volume: 20cm x 20cm X 26cm
- Travel Speed: 300mm/s
- Resolution: up to 0.05mm
- Electronic: Ramps 1.4 with TMC2100 1/256 microstep Motordriver
3. The [Falla 3D](http://www.falla3d.com/index_en.html) is an OpenSource 3D Printer with a magnetic levitation system for the bearings of the X and Y axes. The printer is also modular (it can extrude all 3mm and 1.75 mm filaments) and is scalable.
- BOM and CAD files exist on [github](https://github.com/3dita/Falla3D)
<img src="http://www.falla3d.com/images/screenshots/45dx.jpg" width="350" height="350" style="vertical-align:middle">
- Specifications:
- Scalable up to a 90x60x60 cm printing area (Printer size 100x70x70 cm)
- Double Extruder - With a single FUM hotend, with a classic double 3mm hotend or with a 1.75 Bowden system.
4. The [D-bot Core XY 3D printer](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1001065) from user Spauda01 on Makerbot's Thingiverse is another solid alu frame design with a coreXY mechanism. The design has high community interaction and over 140 replications.
- BOM, CAD and Build instructins (video and pdf guide) available
- Costs about 550$
<img src="http://i.imgur.com/oFbBbEb.jpg" width="350" height="350" style="vertical-align:middle">
- Build Volume: 300mm x 200mm x 325mm
- Licences under Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported (CC BY-SA 3.0) i.e. commercial as well.
<u> **Some Commercial Open Source (DIY) Desktop Printers** </u>
1. Ultimaker -
2. Creality Ender 3
---
The Open lab 3D Printer must be a reliable machine with quality components that can be built from scratch with having to source as few components as possible. The printer can be built locally without having to purchase an expensive Kit or fully assembled 3D Printer. The printer should make it possible for users to choose their own components for key elements depending on local availability of components and budget.
With quality components and systems being more expensive, 3 designs categories are proposed depending on the user budget. These are namely a high end model, a mid-consumer model and a budget model.
Using **MoSCoW** method of prioritization to prioritize the design objectives.
- **Must have (M)** — these are critical and must be included into the product. If even one isn’t included, the release is considered a failure. These can be downgraded if there’s agreement among stakeholders.
- **Should have (S)** — these requirements are important but not crucial for the release. They’re the first level of “Nice to have”, and generally share the importance of MUST requirements, without being so time-sensitive.
- **Could have (C)** — these requirements are desirable but not necessary for the release. They’re usually low-cost enhancements to the product. Due to their lower importance, they’re the second level of “Nice to have” features.
- **Won’t have (W)** — these are considered to be the least-critical or even not aligned with the product strategy. They are to be definitely dropped or to be reconsidered for future releases.
### 3D Printer Design Goals:
1. Enclosed and Stiff construction
2. Reliable and repeatable print quality
3. As much as possible can be built or sourced locally
4. Configurable based on local resources
5. No reliance on any manufacturer or proprietary hardware
### Technical Specifications
- Build Volume :- 200x200x200 to 400x400x400 (Configurable?)
- Built in Enclosure
- Automatic bed levelling feature with inductive sensor
- Heated Build Platform (> 60 deg C?)
- High Quality hot end (E3D V6 or better)
- Use a direct-drive extruder (to print flexible filaments) / Bowden Extruder
- Swappable Nozzle (0.25, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8)
- PLA, ABS and other std. materials
- Detect if filament finishes mid build or gets stuck
- Detect power loss and resume build
- Removable build plate (flex to remove part)
- HEPA Filter with Fan to remove fumes (for ABS printing)
- Emergency Stop Button
- 32 bit control capability
- Linear guides for fast accelerations
- Wifi Connectivity
- IP Cam to see build in real time
## Design Categories
1. **Design 1 High End**: (Similar or cheaper than Ultimaker < 2500€ )
- High end 3D printer with profesional grade print quality and speed
- Durable and high end components
- Latest features
2. **Design 2 - Mid Consumer** (similar in price to Prusa i3 < 760€ )
- Higher end 3D printer with most key advanced features that could be in the price range of the prusa i3
3. **Design 3 - Affordable** (Similar in price to Ender 3 < 200€ )
- 3D printer that is affordable in the range of the cheapest commercial good quality printer like the popular Creality Ender 3
- This could include similar design considerations in terms of components and mechanics
- Fully DIY so it can be built by anyone and almost anywhere in the world
- Should have all the very basics to allow someone to 3D print good parts
## 3D Printer Mechanics
1. Cartesian – eg. In the Prusa i3 and the Ender 3 whereby the Hot End moves in the X and Z axis, while the bed moves in the Y axis.
(Put picture)
- Pros:
- Tried and trusted design
- Very commonly found in printers
- Easy to build and assemble
- Kinematics are simple for firmware to calculate making a cheaper 8 bit board sufficient
- Cons:
- Large Prints can get heavy and difficult for bed to move without causing build defects
- Bed needs to move in the front and back of machine, so the bed overhangs in front and back substantially. This makes machine footprint much bigger than actual print area
2. **Delta 3D Printers** has 3 stepper motors controlling linear motion up and down the tower, i.e. print head does all the movement while the build plate stays stationary. Therefore the print head, extruder and arms need to be as lightweight as possible. Print speed is also high.
- Pros:
- Has a small footprint since the build plate is stationary
- Is ideal for tall prints
- High accuracy and speed
- Cons:
- Print head needs X,Y and Z motors to work simultaneously and constantly for every motion – can be more energy intensive
- Kinematics are difficult for firmware to calculate
- Inefficiency of height since extra height for machine required to accommodate the arms and print head.
- Circular build plate can be a disadvantage for some
3. **Core XY:** Mix between cartesian and delta in characteristics. Single stepper motor to control the Z-axis moving bed up or down. 2 Stepper motors work to create the X and Y motion. Calculations are tricky and benefit from 32bit mainboard. Also optimal when printhead and extruder have minimal mass
![Core XY Mechanism](https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Shane_Hooper/publication/346036049/figure/fig1/AS:966073641865219@1607341313422/CoreXY-Mechanism_W640.jpg)
- Pros:
- Boxed Frame design commonly found in Core XY is more rigid compared to Prusa i3 style open frame
- More efficient in Y space usage > High space utilization
- Lighter moving weight on extruder and so head can change direction easily and quickly
- Prints are not shaken constantly, since build plate moves up only after one complete layer build and so more stable at the initial layer
- Printhead does not need to carry mass of X-stepper motor. This reduces burden of the shaft, compared to designs where motor moves with axis
- Future compatibility with tool changing systems
- Printers can be easily enclosed
- Cons:
- Complicated assembly and belt system design
- Long belts required and so difficult to tension belts
- X and Y cannot be driven by lead screw, only with belt
4. **Hbot** printers are similar to Core XY with a slightly different belt setup
# Home
# Home
1. Lead screws
2. Acme Screws
3. Ball Screws
4.
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