@@ -40,12 +40,10 @@ Preliminary research was carried out to see which open source designs and commer
- Build Volume: 300mm x 200mm x 325mm
- Licences under Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported (CC BY-SA 3.0) i.e. commercial as well.
5.[Voron v2.4](https://vorondesign.com/) by Paul Nokel is a high end DIY 3D Printer that is fully open source and is popular for having excellent print quality and speed along with intuitive assembly documentation. The Voron 2.1 uses mains current to heat the stationary bed, and 12v everywhere else. The printer is however on the expensive side of DIY prinitng and is realtively complicated for someone new in 3D printing.
5.[Voron v2.4](https://vorondesign.com/) by Paul Nokel is a high end DIY 3D Printer that is fully open source and is popular for having excellent print quality and speed along with intuitive assembly documentation. The Voron 2.1 uses mains current to heat the stationary bed, and 12v everywhere else. The printer is however on the expensive side of DIY prinitng and is realtively complicated for someone new in 3D printing. Here is also a [Voron buildlog](https://www.elektrifiziert.net/forum/index.php?thread/134-voron-2-4-3d-drucker-selbstbau-tagebuch/).
6.[Hypercube 3D Printer](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1752766) is a rigid boxed shape 3D printer made from 2020 aluminium extrusion profiles from user Tech2C and is very popular on the thingiverse website. The design also employs the coreXY mechanism with the attempt to reduce the X-carriage weight. The printer however has a cantilevered bed which causes Z-wobble in prints mainly noticed in printers that have tried to scale the design to a larger build volume.
8.[Hypercube Evolution](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2254103)(also known as the HEVO), developed by SCOTT_3D, is an iteration or remix of the HyperCube 3D printer designed by Tech2C. It adds 3030 extrusions around the frame for added thickness, as well as a few more upgrades. It has a decent Wiki as well as a couple of different BOM generators, online and in Excel format. The design comes with configurable CAD files for required build volume and single or double Z axis motors. The build is relatively simple and allows modifications. The design is fully open source i.e. users can use the design, modify it and also use it for commercial purposes. The design is very popular in the community, since it improves on the previous design by tech2C by making it more rigid.
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-[Fuson360 Model from User2](https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue28de06e/g/shares/SH7f1edQT22b515c761e627c356ab003cc8e?viewState=NoIgbgDAdAjCA0IDeAdEAXAngBwKZoC40ARXAZwEsBzAOzXjQEMyzd1C0B2CAEwCY%2BjGADMAtAGYIAI1yiALOMZ9RATjkA2FfIiMe43Ll25xAYzQBfEAF0gA)
9.[Hypercube Evolution Oliver RT or HevORT](https://miragec79.github.io/HevORT/) is a remix **high end** DIY 3D Printer based on the Hypercube Evolution design which can cost about 2000 USD. The printer has auto-levelling of bed using 3 extra z-axis motors. It has a rigid Gantry for achieving high accelerations and speed using a direct drive extruder, whereby the user has achieved a build speed of 500mm/s+ with the printer.
1.[Hypercube Evolution Oliver RT or HevORT](https://miragec79.github.io/HevORT/) is a remix **high end** DIY 3D Printer based on the Hypercube Evolution design which can cost about 2000 USD. The printer has auto-levelling of bed using 3 extra z-axis motors. It has a rigid Gantry for achieving high accelerations and speed using a direct drive extruder, whereby the user has achieved a build speed of 500mm/s+ with the printer.
-[Github repository](https://github.com/MirageC79/HevORT) and website has printer configurator, BOM generator and fusion 360 CAD model.
<u>**Some Commercial and semi open Source (DIY) Desktop Printers**</u>
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The current design uses 2 lead screws attached to Nema17 motors ot lift the build platform along with 4 linear rods to constrain movement on XY plane. Other possible design variations for the Z-axis are discussed below. Using two motors to lift the bed can cause problems with synchronization. One option would be to use one motor along with pulleys and a belt to run multiple screws. This solves the problem of syncing.
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The following tutorial [video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1VyFejiKkSQ) from youtuber **Teaching Tech**, explains the procedure of installing an AC mains silicon bed heater along with configuring it in Marlin.
**Low voltage (12V or 24V) DC bed heater**
#### Low voltage (12V or 24V) DC bed heater
Use a low voltage drop DC/DC SSR such as the Auber Instruments MGR-1DD80D100 or Crydom DC100D40. The SSR may need a heatsink, depending on the current. Do not be tempted to use a cheap DC-DC SSR such as the SSR-40DD, which is basically useless for this application because of its high voltage drop.
If your heater will reach dangerously high temperatures if it is left on at full power, you should always use a TCO to guard against electronics or firmware failure. The alternative is to choose the heater power carefully so that it is powerful enough to reach the temperatures you want quickly, but not so powerful as to reach a dangerously high temperature when left fully on for a long time.
If your heater will reach dangerously high temperatures if it is left on at full power, you should always use a TCO (Thermal cutout) to guard against electronics or firmware failure. The alternative is to choose the heater power carefully so that it is powerful enough to reach the temperatures you want quickly, but not so powerful as to reach a dangerously high temperature when left fully on for a long time.
- use 12AWG wire from PSU>Mosfet and 12AWG Silicon high temp wire from mosfet to heater
- use 12AWG wire from PSU > Mosfet and 12AWG Silicon high temp wire from mosfet to heater for DC heater
### Choosing Power Supply
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## Configuring Marlin for MKS Sbase v1.3
The compiling of the Marlin configuration can be done using visual studio. The Platform.io extension in visual studio needs to be installed before that. Platform.io can be used to make changes to the configuration file and upload the compliled firmware/configuraton file to the 3D printer. The latest release of [Marlin]() can be downloaded from Marlin's Github repository. Extract the contents of the zip folder and place the entire folder in the VS workspace.
The compiling of the Marlin configuration can be done using visual studio. The Platform.io extension in visual studio needs to be installed before that. Platform.io can be used to make changes to the configuration file and upload the compliled firmware/configuraton file to the 3D printer. The latest release of [Marlin](https://marlinfw.org/) can be downloaded from Marlin's Github repository. Extract the contents of the zip folder and place the entire folder in the VS workspace.
Open the 'platformio.ini' file in the 'marlin-2.0.x' folder and change the 'default_envs' variable of the default atmel to LPC1768. This is the CPU on the MKS Sbase V1.3, and needs to be defined here. Save and exit the platformio.ini file.
Open the **platformio.ini** file in the **marlin-2.0.x** folder and change the **'default_envs'** variable of the default atmel to LPC1768. This is the CPU on the MKS Sbase V1.3, and needs to be defined here. Save and exit the platformio.ini file.
---
Before You Begin to get your core **Configuration.h** settings right you’ll need to know the following things about your printer:
- Printer style, such as Cartesian, Delta, CoreXY, or SCARA
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1. Using a resistor divider setup to reduce the voltage across the G and S pins to be less than 5V.
2. Using a transistor
3. Using an Optocoupler
The voltage divider setup does not work since the pullup resistors within the MKS Sbase V1.3 board need to be deactivated in the firmware to use the voltage divider. However, this cannot be done through the firmware. The transistor method however works. The following [page](https://snafu.priv.at/interests/tinkering/probe_sbase.html) explains the method to attach the transistor to the NPN NO probe.
The voltage divider setup does not work since the pullup resistors within the MKS Sbase V1.3 board need to be deactivated in the firmware to use the voltage divider. However, this cannot be done through the firmware. The transistor method however works. The following [page](https://snafu.priv.at/interests/tinkering/probe_sbase.html) explains the method to attach the transistor to the NPN NO probe. The user also had no problems making the 18mm inductive probe work with the voltage divider setup but not the 12mm inductive probe.
This is an interesting [video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcGFLwj0pnA) describing setting up an NPN NO inductive probe and levelling the Z-probe manually using Repetier Host.
This is an interesting [video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcGFLwj0pnA) describing the setting up of an NPN NO inductive probe and levelling the Z-probe manually using Repetier Host.
[Discussion](https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/101624/how-to-connect-a-inductive-proximity-sensor-switch-npn-dc6-36v-to-pic18f4550-5v/263759#263759) about the use of optocouplers or a transistor to power the NPN probe.
### Wiring a mechanical EndStop
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## Setting up MKS TFT32 Display
Go to Github repo from Makerbase and download the zip folder for TFT28-32 display.
Currently the LCD display is a full discount RepRep Smart Controller LCD. This works with a hack that involves turning the EXP connectors on the back of the LCD controller 180 degrees. However, the SD card on the controller does not work without a tricky wire hack. This is mainly a problem with marlin. The REpRAP display SD card works fine with smoothieware. The SD card on the TFT 32 or TFT 28 displays from MKS work with marlin and so next step will be to get one of these.
To configure the TFT32 display and install firmware, go to Github repo from Makerbase and download the zip folder for TFT28-32 display.
- Extract the contents
- Open Config folder and copy out the mks_config_EN.txt file and rename it to remove the _EN since that causes problems > file renamed to mks_config.txt
- Go to Firmware > TFT28 32 firmware > Retro > mkstft28.bin
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[Instructable on good practices for building 3d printer](https://www.instructables.com/An-Almost-Reliable-High-Precision-3D-Printer-Son-o/)
A nice way of presenting bill of materials 
## Next Improvements
The surface finish of 3d printed parts is generally good other than some ringing or ghosting that is visible. According to this blogpost(Insert link), this can be attributed to the slack from belts or wobbling idler pulleys. Users have countered these issues in several ways:
1) Better quality GT2 belts (gates original)
2) Wider belts - for example 10mm belts. Current design has 6mm belts.
3) 5mm bore idler pulleys instead of current 3mm bore pulleys.
4) 5mm smooth shaft for idler pulleys instead of 3mm bolt as shaft as in current design
5) Precision shim washers between pulleys to act as spacers and reduce play between pulleys
