1.[Shining 3D Einscan SE](https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07111K9NM/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=gouza3dworld-21&creative=6742&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B07111K9NM&linkId=f5ef062743278471949724d4ff8ae53e) is a 3D scanner (colour scanner) with white light technology - resolution 0.1 mm - smallest scan area 30 x 30 x 30 mm - largest scan area 200 x 200 mm (turntable scan) and 700 x 700 x 700 mm (free scan/tripod). It has a rotating turntable with a fixed scanner and costs 1053 Euros.
2.[Revopoint 3D Scanner](https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/2125914059/revopoint-pop-high-precision-3d-scanner-for-3d-printing?fbclid=IwAR0JoQ9EG02awxJ5Er74mv3IOJLHvaMxr62QGr6IcqKBQXYcHD3_zsPeO6c) is a small and compact 3D scanner developed on Kickstarter and costs about 250 Euros.
## Open Source 3D Scanner Options
1. OpenScan EU – German maker – kit costs 50Euros
a. Youtube Page with build and use instructions:- https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCG3IgwSIFFlc77Luf9VVlYw^
b. Main Website: https://en.openscan.eu/openscan
c. BOM, CAD and build Instructions available
3. 3D Scanner Turntable from youtuber Eric Strebel using Agisoft Metashape (commercial Software)
a. Youtube Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28vrZIj-hYQ
4. DIY solution with phone camera and Open source software Meshroom and Meshlab.
a. Youtuber Crosslink: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45D0pFdqVgw
@@ -57,24 +57,28 @@ Various repositories such as Youtube, Github, Instructables, GrabCad, Thingivers
8.[Hypercube Evolution](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2254103)(also known as the HEVO), developed by SCOTT_3D, is an iteration on the HyperCube 3D printer designed by Tech2C. It adds 3030 extrusions around the frame for added thickness, as well as a few more upgrades. It has a decent Wiki as well as a couple of different BOM generators, online and in Excel format. The design comes with configurable CAD files for required build volume and single or double Z axis motors.
-[HEVO build guide](https://bestin-it.com/how-to-build-best-3d-printer-from-scratch-hypercube-evolution/) from a german maker detailing his build and sourcing of parts
-[Fusion Model from user1](https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue28de06e/g/shares/SH7f1edQT22b515c761edd5edf41a5b4aa05?viewState=NoIgbgDAdAjCA0IDeAdEAXAngBwKZoC40ARXAZwEsBzAOzXjQEMyzd1C0B2CAEwCY%2BjGADMAtAGYIAI1yiALOMZ9RATjkA2FfIiMe43Ll25xAYzQBfEAF0gA&fbclid=IwAR2G9gEP79uHXTaEnc1MUpbw_OhZn3VWZfzaTZHgxxt_8QGHX8jGW89UFPA)
-[Fusion360 Model from user1](https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue28de06e/g/shares/SH7f1edQT22b515c761edd5edf41a5b4aa05?viewState=NoIgbgDAdAjCA0IDeAdEAXAngBwKZoC40ARXAZwEsBzAOzXjQEMyzd1C0B2CAEwCY%2BjGADMAtAGYIAI1yiALOMZ9RATjkA2FfIiMe43Ll25xAYzQBfEAF0gA&fbclid=IwAR2G9gEP79uHXTaEnc1MUpbw_OhZn3VWZfzaTZHgxxt_8QGHX8jGW89UFPA)
-[Fuson360 Model from User2](https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue28de06e/g/shares/SH7f1edQT22b515c761e627c356ab003cc8e?viewState=NoIgbgDAdAjCA0IDeAdEAXAngBwKZoC40ARXAZwEsBzAOzXjQEMyzd1C0B2CAEwCY%2BjGADMAtAGYIAI1yiALOMZ9RATjkA2FfIiMe43Ll25xAYzQBfEAF0gA)
-
1.[Hypercube Evolution Oliver RT or HevORT](https://miragec79.github.io/HevORT/) is a remix **high end** DIY 3D Printer based on the Hypercube Evolution design which can cost about 2000 USD. The printer has auto-levelling of bed using 3 extra z-axis motors. It has a rigid Gantry for achieving high accelerations and speed using a direct drive extruder, whereby the user has achieved a build speed of 500mm/s+ with the printer.
9.[Hypercube Evolution Oliver RT or HevORT](https://miragec79.github.io/HevORT/) is a remix **high end** DIY 3D Printer based on the Hypercube Evolution design which can cost about 2000 USD. The printer has auto-levelling of bed using 3 extra z-axis motors. It has a rigid Gantry for achieving high accelerations and speed using a direct drive extruder, whereby the user has achieved a build speed of 500mm/s+ with the printer.
-[Github repository](https://github.com/MirageC79/HevORT) and website has printer configurator, BOM generator and fusion 360 CAD model.
10.
<u>**Some Commercial Open Source (DIY) Desktop Printers**</u>
1. Ultimaker -
2. Creality Ender 3
1. Stratasys (Industrial Higher End)
2. Ultimaker (Mid consumer however still expensive) - These are considered highly reliable, however come at a high price tag starting at 2500 Euros for the base model
3. Creality Ender 3 - Cheapest available chinese printer (about 200 Euros) that is also open source. Provides great quality prints and is also certified by OSHWA to be fully open source. However, only this model from Crealty.
---
## Choosing a 3D Printer for the OLSK
The aim of the Open Lab 3D printer is to develop a DIY 3D Printer design that is robust and reliable. It should be possible for anyone to build it, with the posssibility of modifying it according to their budget, requirements and available resources.
The Open lab 3D Printer must be a reliable machine with quality components that can be built from scratch with having to source as few components as possible. The printer can be built locally without having to purchase an expensive Kit or fully assembled 3D Printer. The printer should make it possible for users to choose their own components for key elements depending on local availability of components and budget.
With quality components and systems being more expensive, 3 designs categories are proposed depending on the user budget. These are namely a high end model, a mid-consumer model and a budget model.
...
...
@@ -92,6 +96,18 @@ Using **MoSCoW** method of prioritization to prioritize the design objectives.
4. Configurable based on local resources
5. No reliance on any manufacturer or proprietary hardware
### Further Requirements (For Workshops)
1. Printable assembly and build instruction required.
2. SD card, USB drive compatibility and display required.
3. Aluminium profile ends needs to be closed with protection pads.
4. All holes in profiles, enclosure plates or build plate needs to be drilled and deburred in advance
5. Linear bearings needed to lubricated beforehand (or avoided by buying quality bearings)
6. Threaded inserts (Einpressmutter) needs to be inserted into printed parts before workshop and check possibility to replaced inserts with nuts
7. Firmware should already be uploaded to controller board with the right settings.
8. All cables must be extended to have the right length with insertable JST ends (Workshop will have no soldering activity)
9.
### Technical Specifications
-Build Volume :- 200x200x200 to 400x400x400 (Configurable?)
-Built in Enclosure
...
...
@@ -125,10 +141,116 @@ Using **MoSCoW** method of prioritization to prioritize the design objectives.
-Fully DIY so it can be built by anyone and almost anywhere in the world
-Should have all the very basics to allow someone to 3D print good parts
### Current 3D Printer Design Log
## Current 3D Printer Design Log
### Frame
For the outer frame of the design, we start with the Hypercube Evoution design by thingyverse user Scott3D which has a boxed construction that has been tried and tested for rigidity and stiffness. The boxed frame is also easier to enclose which is necessary for printing ABS that requires a controlled temperature environment for good layer adhesion. The frame squareness after building can be verified by measuring the opposite diagonals. If they are the same you know have a square structure.
### Mechanics
The design uses the CoreXY mechanism whereby the motors for the X and Y axis are fixed to the frame, which makes the X carriage that carries only the print head lighter than a conventional Cartesian design which has to carry the X axis motor. This should allow higher accelerations and printing speed.
### CAD 3D Model
Scott3D the original creator of the Hypercube Evolution design has uploaded a parametrized and configurable CAD file in Autodesk Inventor. This needs some modifications since the parameters don't work correctly in the original file. This is a good starting point but later designs will be carried out in Fusion 360. For now a build volume of 300cm3 will be used to build the first iteration.
Part of the design criteria is to fit the power supply and electronics under the base. This means the 3D printer is extended on the bottom by 50 mm but it has a clean look with increased safety by keeping electronics out of reach of (kids). Moreover, transport is easier and the printer can be easily placed on a desk. The printer size is increased on the top by 60mm to accomodate the moving cables of the print head during printing.
### **Belts and Pulleys**
6mm wide rubber GT2 belts are used in the design. Here belts with steel reinforcement are to be avoided since these are not elastic enough and so can cause wobbling or misalignment of the idlers. Rather fibre reinforced rubber belts are to be used.
### **Electronics**
1. Control Board - MKS Sbase V1.3
2. Optical EndStops
3. Heat Bed Options
- Silicone Bed Heater (Keenovo) 220V mains heating
-
4. Z-bed levelling sensor choices:
-Induction Sensor
-BL touch
-IR sensor
-Piezo Sensor
5. Rasberry Pi for Octoprint (WiFi printing)
6. Fans for cooling electronics
### Configuring the MKS Sbase V1.3
-[Installing and Configuring SBASE controller](http://folgerforum.com/t/installing-and-configuring-sbase-controller-for-ft-5/82)
-[More Info on the MKS SBASE](https://3daddict.com/mks-sbase-32bit-mainboard-controller/)
## Direct Drive vs Bowden Drive
Most filament 3D printers use either direct or bowden extrusion. Both set-ups use an extruder to push filament through a heated nozzle, either directly or through a bowden tube. Though similar, these extruder formats have major differences.
The current design uses 2 lead screws attached to Nema17 motors ot lift the build platform along with 4 linear rods to constrain movement on XY plane. Other possible design variations for the Z-axis are discussed below. Using two motors to lift the bed can cause problems with synchronization. One option would be to use one motor along with pulleys and a belt to run multiple screws. This solves the problem of syncing.
[Discussion 1](https://www.reddit.com/r/Reprap/comments/eds3im/hypercube_vs_hypercube_evo_single_z_motor/), [Discussion 2](https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,880969) on RepRap Wiki about the optimal number of lead screws, motors and guide rails combination to lift the build platform of a 330x330 cast aluminium build plate. Some of the possible designs are:
1. Original HEVO design by Scott3D of 2 lead screws + 4 12mm linear shafts(rods), run by 2 Nema Motors
2. 4 lead screws along with 4 linear shafts on four corners of build platform driven by 1 Nema17 motor and a belt and pulleys.
3. 3 lead screws + 2 linear shafts run by pulleys/belt and single Nema17 motor.
4. 2 lead screws + 4 linear shafts driven by 1 Nema17 motor with belt and pulleys
- 20 teeth pulley on motor and 40 teeth pulleys on lead screw
[Thingiverse Design from Gavitka](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2761562) and his [CAD model on Onshape](https://cad.onshape.com/documents/e7649e3888db4d61f17f5d40/w/3f454d3ecf79df8221cb6c13/e/d05210b36b3cba6cdb46aa0a)
5. Single stepper motor with 2 belts on either side to lift bed [design]/https://drmrehorst.blogspot.com/2017/07/ultra-megamax-dominator-z-axis-design_65.html)
This is a good question to make a comparison table. All-metal hotends Vs. PTFE liner hotends.
All metal:
- Works well for high (+250ºC) temperatures filaments like nylon or PC.
- No need to replace the PTFE liner (pretty obvious).
- Retraction performs worse.
- Plastic can get stuck to the inner walls. This can lead to clogging, more likely when changing from ABS to PLA (higher temp plastic to lower temp plastic).
PTFE liner hotend:
- Limited working temperature. Above 250 PTFE will start to degrade.
- PTFE tube needs to be replaced more or less often, depending on the use of your printer.
- Retraction performs better.
- Plastic is less likely to get stuck in inner wall (PTFE is very nonstick).
- When using PTFE liner, the plastic is melted very close to the nozzle. Unlike other techniques, in FFF/FDM 3D printing this is more desirable. E.g. to avoid 'heat creep', for a better flow control and more accurate output dimension.
**Various Options for Linear Bearings on Smooth Rods**
1. Bronze bushing - Smooth bearings but could suffer from slip-stick effect if not properly aligned. Thez also need to be regularly lubricated.
2. Linear ball bearings LMXUU (with X for shaft diameter) - Less smoother than bronze bushings but also louder. Thez are more forgiving of misalignment. Thez are also less susceptible to wear.
3. Igus bearings (special polymer bushing) - similar to bronze bushings and are also susceptible to slip-stick effect.
4.
-[Discussion](https://www.3d-druck-community.de/showthread.php?tid=11060) on difference between various linear bearings
### Optional Features (Future Work) ###
1. Detect and pause print when filament runs out
- 3D printed [design](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:285504/files) with mechanical roller switch
2. Pause print when enclosure door opens
3. Pause print when enclosure door is opened
## Calibration & Fine Tuning Methods
For the outerframe of the design, I am starting with the Hypercube Evoution design which has a boxed construction that has been tried and tested for rigidity and stiffness. The boxed frame is also easier to enclose which is necessary for printing ABS that requires a controlled temperature environment for good layer adhesion. The design also uses the CoreXY mechanism wwhereby the motors for the X and Y axis are fixed to the frame, which makes the X carriage that carries only the print head lighter than a conventional Cartesian design which has to carry the X axis motor. This should allow higher accelerations and printing speed.
[Printer Calibration cross](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2484766) from thingiverse.
Scott3D the original creator of the Hypercube Evolution design has uploaded a parametrized and configurable CAD file in Autodesk Inventor. This needs some modifications since the parameters don't work correctly in the original file. This is a good starting point but later designs will be carried out in Fusion 360. For now a build volume of 300cm3 will be used to build the first iteration. The current design with two / motors
[Thingiverse Post](https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,530210) of finetuning the CoreXY setup
Part of the design criteria is to fit the power supply and electronics under the base. This means a taller machine but it has a clean look with increased safety by keeping electronics out of reach of (kids). Moreover, transport is easier and the printer can be easily placed on a desk. The board I haven't decided on a mounting solution for yet. It may live under the machine as well with a fan ducted to outside the frame but I'm still working on the basic mechanical design so I haven't gotten to the electronics yet. The frame is being designed with the intent of closing it off so I can print with whatever I want. I haven't decided on hinged or fully removable panels yet though.
\ No newline at end of file
[Instructable on good practices for building 3d printer](https://www.instructables.com/An-Almost-Reliable-High-Precision-3D-Printer-Son-o/)
@@ -50,6 +50,10 @@ In a machine with the bed moving in the Y axis, the typical end-supported guide
In the CoreXY design, the tension of the belts plays a major role. For example, if the belts are selected from inferior material, they can stretch more quickly and therefore wear out more quickly. This often causes the 3D printer to lose accuracy after a short time.
[Mark Rehort's ideas of CoreXY design](https://drmrehorst.blogspot.com/2018/08/corexy-mechanism-layout-and-belt.html) - Good information on designing principles of core XY
[Thingiverse Post](https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,530210) of finetuning the CoreXY setup
4.**H-bot** printers are similar to Core XY with the biggest difference being that CoreXY systems have two timing belts and H-Bot systems have only one. This means that CoreXY systems have less vibration and can print much more accurately and quicker than H-Bot systems.
