@@ -157,7 +157,18 @@ The design uses the CoreXY mechanism whereby the motors for the X and Y axis are
### **CAD 3D Model**
Scott3D the original creator of the Hypercube Evolution design has uploaded a parametrized and configurable CAD file in Autodesk Inventor. This needs some modifications since the parameters don't work correctly in the original file. This is a good starting point but later designs will be carried out in Fusion 360. For now a build volume of 300cm3 will be used to build the first iteration.
Part of the design criteria is to fit the power supply and electronics under the base. This means the 3D printer is extended on the bottom by 50 mm but it has a clean look with increased safety by keeping electronics out of reach of (kids). Moreover, transport is easier and the printer can be easily placed on a desk. The printer size is increased on the top by 60mm to accomodate the moving cables of the print head during printing.
Part of the design criteria is to fit the power supply and electronics under the base. This means the 3D printer is extended on the bottom by 50 mm but it has a clean look with increased safety by keeping electronics out of reach of (kids). Moreover, transport is easier and the printer can be easily placed on a desk. The printer size is increased on the top by 100mm to accomodate the moving cables of the print head during printing.
### Linear Bearings Comparison
**Various Options for Linear Bearings on Smooth Rods**
1. Bronze bushing - Smooth bearings but could suffer from slip-stick effect if not properly aligned. Thez also need to be regularly lubricated.
2. Linear ball bearings LMXUU (with X for shaft diameter) - Less smoother than bronze bushings but also louder. Thez are more forgiving of misalignment. Thez are also less susceptible to wear.
3. Igus bearings (special polymer bushing) - similar to bronze bushings and are also susceptible to slip-stick effect.
-[Discussion](https://www.3d-druck-community.de/showthread.php?tid=11060) on difference between various linear bearings
### **Belts and Pulleys**
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@@ -204,7 +215,6 @@ Most filament 3D printers use either direct or bowden extrusion. Both set-ups us
The current design uses 2 lead screws attached to Nema17 motors ot lift the build platform along with 4 linear rods to constrain movement on XY plane. Other possible design variations for the Z-axis are discussed below. Using two motors to lift the bed can cause problems with synchronization. One option would be to use one motor along with pulleys and a belt to run multiple screws. This solves the problem of syncing.
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@@ -277,8 +287,11 @@ Use a zero-crossing DC-AC SSR such as Crydom D2425, Kudom KSI240D25-L or Fotek S
Take appropriate safety precautions when using a mains voltage bed heater. In particular:
Connect metal parts of the printer to mains ground. This includes the printer frame, the bed plate if it is conductive (e.g. aluminium), and any other metal parts that the bed heater or SSR wiring might come into contact with if wires break.
Ensure that it is not possible for the user to touch the SSR terminals or any other exposed mains wiring, or for you to touch the mains wiring when you are working on the printer with power applied. If your SSR is not supplied with a clear plastic safety cover, buy one (for the Crydom SSR listed above, the part number is KS101).
If the bed is moving, use highly-flexible wire or cable with a sufficient voltage rating to connect the moving bed heater to the stationary wiring. Cable intended for use in multimeter tests leads is one possibility.
If the bed is moving, you must use strain relief at both ends of that cable, to reduce the risk of the cable fracturing with repeated movement.
If the bed is moving, use a cable chain or similar to make sure that the cable can't get chafed or trapped.
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@@ -286,7 +299,8 @@ Provide a fuse for the bed heater circuit or the whole printer appropriate to th
It is highly recommended that you power the printer via a Ground Fault Current Interruptor (GFCI) - more commonly called a RCD (Residual Current Device) in the UK - to protect against electric shock in the event of a fault.
If in doubt, consult a qualified electrician.
Low voltage (12V or 24V) DC bed heater
**Low voltage (12V or 24V) DC bed heater**
Use a low voltage drop DC/DC SSR such as the Auber Instruments MGR-1DD80D100 or Crydom DC100D40. The SSR may need a heatsink, depending on the current. Do not be tempted to use a cheap DC-DC SSR such as the SSR-40DD, which is basically useless for this application because of its high voltage drop.
If your heater will reach dangerously high temperatures if it is left on at full power, you should always use a TCO to guard against electronics or firmware failure. The alternative is to choose the heater power carefully so that it is powerful enough to reach the temperatures you want quickly, but not so powerful as to reach a dangerously high temperature when left fully on for a long time.
One of the most important things about your 3D Printer is the Wiring. If the gauge is too small you won’t get enough current to your parts and can even have a disaster on your hands. Too large of a gauge and you might have a problem fitting those crimped terminals into the connectors.
One of the most important things about your 3D Printer is the Wiring. If the wire gauge is too small you won’t get enough current to your parts and can even lead to busted cables. Too large of a gauge and you might have a problem fitting those crimped terminals into the connectors.
So, the first thing to look for in a wire type is a stranded wire.
The reason being your printer will create thousands of cycled movements and if your wire is a solid it will be susceptible to break over the duration of repeated abuse. The stranded wire allows for the cable to flex and move without breaking over time.
So, the first thing to look for in a wire type is a stranded wire. The reason being your printer will create thousands of cycled movements and if your wire is a solid it will be susceptible to break over the duration of repeated abuse. The stranded wire allows for the cable to flex and move without breaking over time.
The RepRap Wiki page recommends using 22AWG or 20AWG
[Instructions](http://www.hobbycncaustralia.com.au/Instructions/iI1powerchassis.htm) on setting up the power connector.
The hot end and thermister wires are not polarity dependent so the + and - can be plugged in anyway.
From top left, the motors will be connected in the order of X, Y, Z followed by the extruder motor. For the Z axis a splitter will have to be used to join both the Z-axis motors to a single Z port.
#### **3D Printer Wiring Connectors**
**Dupont Connectors**
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@@ -358,20 +383,15 @@ The JST connectors are what are used on the 32 bi boards such as the MKS, AZteeg
Wiring exmaple of the MKS Sbase V1.3 Board - 
- Great [instructable](http://www.hobbycncaustralia.com.au/Electronics/ElecKit43.htm
) on wiring up the various electronics:
### Linear Bearings Comparison
**Inserting threaded inserts in Printed Parts**
**Various Options for Linear Bearings on Smooth Rods**
1. Bronze bushing - Smooth bearings but could suffer from slip-stick effect if not properly aligned. Thez also need to be regularly lubricated.
2. Linear ball bearings LMXUU (with X for shaft diameter) - Less smoother than bronze bushings but also louder. Thez are more forgiving of misalignment. Thez are also less susceptible to wear.
3. Igus bearings (special polymer bushing) - similar to bronze bushings and are also susceptible to slip-stick effect.
